October 22, 2021


World's finest business

This significant-tech, Bavarian bunker is storing the world’s very best wines

5 min read

Scenarios of scarce vintages line the shelves of the Unger Weine bunker, all in a managed ecosystem supervised by computer systems

Sam Chick

When the Unger Weine storage cellar was getting crafted in Frasdorf, a very small village in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps, a nearby approached Michael Unger, the company’s co-founder, and gazed at the huge gap getting hewn out of the limestone and marble rock. This, he decided, will have to be one thing for the military: no one would shell out eight months digging a hole like this just for wine.

Nowadays the opinions are instead unique. Over floor stands an classy, classic Bavarian property, with sloping roofs, timber partitions and latticed balconies seeking out in excess of the meadows. As properly as the places of work of a wine-buying and selling small business recognised as a single of Europe’s finest, it serves as a picturesque location for tasting gatherings and hospitality. “We get complimented on how well we have restored this old farmhouse,” Unger claims. “People really don’t realise that we created it from scratch.”

People are also unaware that lying beneath, accessed by a one stairway, is a dark, silent stronghold for a multitude of the rarest and most sought-right after vintages on Earth – the types that justify protection steps deserving of a lender vault, and a personal computer-controlled weather guaranteeing temperature, humidity and even vibrations (or a lack of) are managed to the finest degree.

It is not, Unger clarifies, the variety of facility exactly where proprietors could possibly anticipate to fall in to decide up a number of bottles for a supper get together. “We keep anything by the case, we deliver by the case and we even do the logistics underground to be certain as little disturbance as probable,” he says. “If another person goes into the cellar, it modifications the humidity, gentle and temperature far too significantly.”

Michael and Wulf Unger in the shipping and delivery acquiring spot

Sam Chick

In fact, a chip-coded critical obtain program information just about every doorway opening and closing, who applied it and how long they used inside of. That’s important for minimising disruption to the wine, but also to the protection of a bunker whose contents are searingly precious.

From partitions of circumstances of difficult-to-get Leading Cru blockbusters to cult spectaculars like California’s Screaming Eagle (upwards of $3,000 a bottle if you can at any time track 1 down), Unger Weine’s in-property portfolio is like a who’s who of the desirable, the unobtainable and the untouchable. And it shares the cellar’s 5,000 sq. metres with privately owned collections from purchasers across Europe and, more and more, from all around the environment. Some have as quite a few as 500 circumstances stored, which may well end up in this article for decades, if not generations.

“Most individuals connect with their cellars ‘cellars’, but they are not a cellar,” says Unger, a former engineer in the luxurious vehicle business, who started the wine-importation small business with his brother Wulf, an economics PHD, 30 a long time ago. In 2007, they opened a storage facility for their stock, but the subsequent increase in investment decision purchasing, and ensuing calls for from private shoppers for excess storage area, confident the brothers to go a phase even further.

“We said: let’s construct anything, but if we do, it has to be a benchmark,” Unger states. Building took 4 a long time, with “Der Keller” opening in 2015. “For me as an engineer, know-how was key to developing anything that is one of a kind in the wine industry.”

Michael Unger authenticates a bottle of Château Lafite Rothschild

Sam Chick

Unger points out that quite a few of Europe’s aged chateaus and mansions have cellars packed with wine, but devoid of temperature and humidity controls. “And of class, temperature has improved in comparison to 50 many years ago. Place temperature for wine is unique now.”

For wine storage, weather is almost everything: if humidity is also small, or the temperature as well superior, evaporation by the cork or oxidation from air seepage can trigger the ruination of a high-quality classic. “The delta concerning inside and outside the bottle ought to be as little as doable,” suggests Unger, who aims to sustain humidity at 70 per cent and the air temperature at 10-15 levels Celsius – “running as near as attainable to the place the place the air is saturated, with no heading in excess of it.”

To do that in his Bavarian bunker, a sophisticated suite of heating, cooling and air-filtration programs was built, and is managed by using bespoke computer system program. At its coronary heart, a combination of geothermal warmth trade from the groundwater, topped up with heating from domestically sourced wooden pellets, runs by way of a radiation-based mostly method embedded in the floors and ceilings that can be specifically managed up and down, when an air-cooling procedure created for medical center isolation wards is used to continually filter the airflow.

Michael Unger ascends the principal cellar staircase. Created by architect Peter Höflinger, it is 12 metres deep

Sam Chick

“We use the aircon as a backup technique,” claims Unger. “We try out to use the [geothermal] process a lot more, but which is a very sophisticated combine for any engineer to deal with. My complex history aided a lot.”

In August, torrential summer months storms resulted in electric power traces to Frasdorf, which lies an hour outdoors Munich, getting reduce – a likely devastating circumstance for these a finely tuned specialized procedure. It turned out to be the ideal stress take a look at for Unger Weine’s back again-up generator. “When the electricity goes off, it goes on a battery procedure to give the generator 20 seconds to electric power up. We only understood there had been an outage simply because the cellphone lines went.”

As considerably as a significantly obsessive curator of wines, Unger is an asset supervisor with hundreds of thousands less than administration, in a sector that is maturing nicely as other areas of the industry search decidedly corked. “Interest premiums have stayed so lower, and investments are acquiring extra and more risky and unprofitable. We’ve witnessed even a lot more desire considering that the pandemic began,” he says. “You have to fork out to retain your hard cash, and people today do not trust it. So why shouldn’t you spend to maintain an financial investment that you can in some cases eat and get pleasure from?”

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